Sun 25 Apr 2004
Trout Ice Cream And Other Horrors
Posted by Linda under TV And So Forth
Okay, step out on the limb with me here. Do you watch Iron Chef? I’m not asking if you admit that you watch it. I’m asking if you actually watch it. I don’t watch it consistently, but I did find myself oddly fascinated when they came up with this Battle of the Masters thing where Food Network subsidiaries like Bobby Flay and Mario Batali go up against a couple of the original Iron Chefs from the Japanese show.
The greatest loss, of course, is Chairman Kaga, who manages to look both psychotic and orgasmic whenever he bites that yellow pepper at the beginning of the show. Instead, we have some new guy, who has the unenviable task of trying to fill the shoes of a genuinely weird television personality. You knew he was in over his head when he introduced the “secret ingredient” in the Morimoto/Batali battle. He took a deep breath, revealed a giant water tank, and hollered, “SPINY LOBSTERS!” Watching a guy do that in English, as opposed to subtitled Japanese, really makes for an unsettling experience. You don’t have to hear Kaga scream, “GIANT CUCUMBERS!” or whatever, which insulates the viewer somewhat from the underlying creepiness of the ingredient being unveiled.
But what was especially charming about the first installment was that Sakai did exactly what my mother and I always laugh the hardest about in every episode — he made the theme ingredient into ice cream, come hell or high water. The ingredient that night was trout. So Sakai made fish ice cream, which he served with berries and trout skin cookies, basically. One of the judges said something along the lines of, “The trout in the ice cream is very subtle.” Yum. I don’t like it when ice cream is too, you know, fishy. I think that displaced the asparagus ice cream as the most appalling ice cream I’ve ever seen an Iron Chef throw down the gullets of the unsuspecting judges.
Of course, it was slightly disappointing that Bobby Flay wasn’t electrocuted like he was last time they did this. (Who knew you shouldn’t waddle around in puddles of water that have heavy electrical cords running through them?) When the celebrity chefs aren’t injured, there’s something missing, I would say. Bring on the amputated thumbs!
Quite honestly, compared to other shows, Iron Chef has a remarkable tendency to turn out food I wouldn’t eat even if they paid me, which I guess in the case of the judges, they actually do. Most of the TV chefs make stuff that at least seems edible, but Iron Chef always has a lot of crunchy fish bones and fried banana peels and boiled potato eyes and that sort of thing. I am well aware that this is largely cultural with respect to the Japanese show — it’s just a lot of food I’m not used to. But even with the American version, Flay threw a whole battered fish in to be deep-fried, and . . . no, I do not want to eat an entire fish with the skin on. Maybe I don’t like theatrical food.
April 25th, 2004 at 7:56 pm
Honeslty? The few episodes I’ve seen in their entirety, have produced nothing that I honestly would eat. And that’s including the eel ice cream!
April 26th, 2004 at 12:15 am
No…I tried to watch once and got utterly squicked out by the “surprise” ingredient which was eel bladder or something equally gross–and that cured me of any curiousity I ever had for that program.
April 26th, 2004 at 6:52 am
Yes! I’ve watched it on and off for years. But this new “American” version is no good–it’s like the remake of Godzilla with Matthew Broderick. Nothing can beat the original, with somebody rattling off in Japanese for 5 minutes and the English dubbing being something like, “Yes! How true!”
April 26th, 2004 at 8:14 am
I’m so disturbed by the American Iron Chef in general that the Battle of the Masters had me in cringing awe the whole time. I sometimes think the food they make should be served on Fear Factor. Case in point: Trout Ice Cream. Blech.
April 26th, 2004 at 11:52 am
I actually enjoyed this new iteration quite a bit. (It has nothing to do with, and nothing in common with, the abortive Shatner monstrosity that was on for about 7 minutes a couple years ago.) Most of the cheese is focused on the new Chairman (whom I find, dare I say, quite hot), and otherwise it’s fairly focused on the food, as it should be. I mean, you couldn’t ask better than Alton Brown as commentator. Maybe they should just let it go at these 4 hours (plus the behind-the-scenes preview), though, and not spin it into a series.
Me too on the trout ice cream. And most raw fishy-type things as well. I would make a lousy judge on this show; fortunately, they’re not likely to ask me.
April 28th, 2004 at 2:47 pm
Like Rinaldo, I am glad that this new Iron Chef America washes the memory of the USA network’s version out of my brain. I thought FN did a pretty good job of coming up with a backstory for the new Chairman. After all, anyone is going to be a letdown after Kaga, so they might as well make him completely different.
However, unlike Linda, I think a lot of the food they make looks mighty tasty. Perhaps it’s my California upbringing or the influence of my Japanese relatives. I would kill for some Morimoto shabu-shabu with Kobe beef, and don’t bother poaching the eggs. Mmm!
April 29th, 2004 at 2:56 pm
I’m with Susanna. I think that a lot of the food looks mighty tasty (although some theme ingredients squick me out completely, like natto).
The fried whole fish is something I’ve been eating with relish for more than 20 years. When properly done, you can’t tell that the fish was fried (no excess grease, in other words), and the flesh is totally tender. Also, flash frying for some reason seems to drive the flavor of herbs and stuff into the fish flesh, which is the closest you are going to get to the effect of marinating fish (unless you are after ceviche).
Count me as the third person who loved that this Iron Chef America helped me recover from that Iron Chef USA crapfest.
April 29th, 2004 at 4:37 pm
First off, Sakai was robbed.
I know, I know, I don’t want to eat trout ice cream either, but how can anyone contend that a menu that doesn’t include trout fucking ice cream is just as original as one that does, I’ll never know. Goldfish! In ice-cream form! Blech, maybe, but certainly original.
And did you see him peeling an apple with a chef’s knife? Or taking the top off a raw egg with its tip? The man is a master. He certainly kicks the ass of Bobby “I can’t remeber my own menus, so it’s a good thing my entire repetoire consists of battering things in blue corn masa and throwing some mango salsa on top” Flay.
Yes, I do watch a little too much food network. Just a little.
P.S. Funniest line, bar none? Alton: “Well, Jim, if I’m not mistaken your jacket there is made out of polyester, so best step back from that grill, ’cause that’ll go up like a ball of napalm. “
May 3rd, 2004 at 3:39 pm
After football, Iron Chef is absolutely the best show on television. Love the way the Japanese guys always win.
Banzai!